Since these pumps are shaft drive if the pump was full of air it would build pressure as it heated up and air might get past the shaft seal and when it cools it could suck in water.
The oil also keeps the water out by being incompressible. Also it keeps the internal bearing and seals lubricated. I suppose this implies that when refilling - which obviously was not intended by the manufacturer to be done by me the end user - as little air as possible should be left in. I don't have any way to vacuum seal this thing, but I suspect that what I am able to do will be "good enough". I tried working on one of these pumps before and gave up and just bought another due to the oil issues.
I am guessing they are assembled under oil or something. Did the pump fail after working on it, or were you just unable to reassemble it filled and sealed to your satisfaction? I have nothing to lose but a bit of my time. I could even manually, and messily assemble it under oil, but I don't think that's the first thing i'll try. Since I had to destroy the original plug and power cord gasket to disassemble it I figured I'd re-tap for pipe plugs, adapt one for the sealed cord egress, fill through the other, then "cork in the bottle" at the fill hole.
I worked with the superintendent of utilities for the Cowichan Regional District many years ago. In a discussion on submersible pumps, he had these gems to offer:- when dealing with sewage pumps, ALWAYS replace the seals annually or be prepared to replace the pumps.
The reason for the vegetable oil was IF a seal failed, it was not recognized as a contaminant in the waste stream, while a mineral oil would cause all sorts of regulatory grief. At the voltages encountered, maximum 3 phase, and the temperatures involved, ANY oil would work.
This of course was just an opinion based on several years of successful application. It was mostly along the lines of "ugh. Manufacturers have been debating long about filling a submersible pump cavity with oil or without oil. An oil filled pump is filled with oil to cover the bearing and windings.
So when one of these motors transfers heat from the rotor core or motor windings it is done with oil or water. As an alternative, synthetic 5W30 motor oil may be used. The amount of oil in the unit should be just enough to cover the motor windings, however, there should be enough room left in the pump casing to allow for expansion when the oil heats up. Is compressor oil dielectric? As the oil used in a hermetic compressor is usually in contact with the coil of the motor, it is critical that it has good dielectric strength.
Moisture in the oil also caused the dielectric strength of the oil to be reduced significantly as water is a reasonably good conductor. How do electric submersible pumps work? Electrical submersible pumps ESPs , much like vertical turbine pumps in design, are typically used to pump liquid.
Essentially, an electric motor drives the pump, and the fluid's kinetic energy is increased. This energy is then partly converted into pressure, which lifts the fluid through the pump.
Does Home Depot sell motor oil? Mobil 32 oz. Can I pour vinegar in my sump pump? Vinegar can be used for cleaning debris and residue in your sump pump. You need to make a detergent of vinegar and water, pour it in your sump pump and let it sit in. After that flush the detergent, and you are good to go. If not used properly, vinegar can damage your sump pump. How do I maintain my basement sump pump?
Plan on doing these items once a year: Remove the pump from the sump and clean it and inspect it. Clean out the sump. Check the Owner's Manual to see if the pump bearings require grease or oil. Replace the pump in the sump. It may be a type that is not designed to be repaired, but many oil filled pumps are repairable, I would say the majority of oil filled pumps are repairable.
SAE , Dec 28, MSDS sheets and info for turbine oils. Messages: 3, Location: North Bay, Ontario. E-mail the company about what they use in their new pumps. Internally cooled sump pumps ie commercial types use turbine oil for cooling. And you can buy in small quantities or contact a local pump supplier. Messages: 15, Location: Buzzardtown, NC. Try calling around to your local plumbing shops.
Chances are they'll have some turbine oil that they'll gladly sell you a cup of. I've been out of the business for a while, but I always kept a gallon or two at my store. John James likes this. Thanks for the replies and after balancing the various options, I'm probably going to go with the Liberty Pumps fill FAQ's suggestion, because of ease of acquisition my ease, I don't get out much , Liberty's suggestion to use synthetic 5w30 at least at first, If I run into drag problems, then I will make efforts to get the turbine oil.
The weather beat all my expectations, hours after the original post, before daybreak Sunday the temperature had dropped below freezing, and the only way that the water will leave the yard currently is if I chop it loose and carry it out. Messages: 6, Location: Northern NJ. Messages: 1. My pump was turning off and on about every two minutes. I started googling for answers and ran across this forum but figuring I was not going to buy an expensive turbine oil or dielectric oil but rather just buy a new pump.
Dine , Jan 4, Messages: 3, Location: California. SolderIron , Jan 5, Messages: 5, Location: Southern NJ. Stinky oil. I know this doesn't help much, but that's all I remember from when the sump pump at my old house rotted out and dumped it's oil in the sump pit. Messages: 5, Location: America's Dairyland. My wife actually assembles your pump. I asked her what oil is used, but was unsure. The supply is pumped to the assembly area, so she does not know. She was told the oil can be used for cooking, sort of makes sense being that if the water mixed with the sump pump oil, the got into the municipal water, it wouldn't be a huge concern.
BTW, she said it really stinks, the oil. The wife spoke to a supervisor, it's not just straight oil, anti-foaming agents, anti-freeze are also additives. My suggestion
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