Fertilize during periods of active growth as opposed to dormancy, usually in the spring and fall. While taking care of weeds may seem like an obvious action in the pursuit of healthy grass growth, there is still a right and wrong way to do it.
When possible, hand-pull sporadic weeds to ensure they are uprooted. If treated chemically, be careful not to purchase a non-selective herbicide which, by design, kills all plant matter entirely. Essentially, a healthy, well-kept lawn of St. Augustine is the best defense against weeds and will eliminate the hassle altogether. Augustine is certainly not a low maintenance species, however, the final result of your hard work is a beautiful lawn, rich in color and development.
Exercise patience and don't stress over how to make St Augustine grass thicker; just be diligent in following its care instructions and your yard will take care of itself. Over time, you will get to know your lawn and find a "sweet spot" in maintenance through trial and error. Evergreen Turf is your source for the highest quality sod in Arizona. Our friendly, knowledgeable people are committed to answering all of your questions to ensure a stress-free experience with your new Arizona sod lawn.
Whether you wish to sod a small play area for the family or an entire golf course, Evergreen Turf can help you make it happen. Grass can be made greener naturally using homemade compost and natural soil amendments. The most common amendments are untreated sawdust, aged horse manure and aged wood. Compost made from kitchen and yard waste greens up your lawn.
Your compost can include leaf mold, coffee grounds, grass clippings, eggshells, and trimmings from fruits and vegetables. It is the least cold tolerant of the warm-season turfgrasses. Augustinegrass for additional information on care and cultivar selection. Augustinegrass is a wide-bladed, spreading, warm-season turfgrass that is adapted to the warmer regions of the southeastern United States.
Producing a yearly maintenance calendar for managing turfgrass consistently year after year can be difficult in a state with such a diverse climate as South Carolina. Important times to monitor the weather are during late winter or early spring when the turf is coming out of dormancy and early autumn when the first frost is forecasted.
Last frost dates and first frost dates can vary by several weeks from the coastal areas of South Carolina to the foothills of the Upstate. Mowing: Mow the lawn slightly lower than the regular summer mowing height.
Be careful not to set the mower too low, as it may scalp the lawn. This height reduction should be done just before the lawn greens up, which usually occurs during late April or early May. If possible, use a mower with a bagger to collect the clippings and remove the dead material left from winter dormancy. Be sure to use a sharpened mower blade. Alternatively, the lawn can be hand raked to remove the excessive dead leaf material from the lawn surface.
A sharp mower blade will cleanly cut the grass blades as opposed to tearing the leaves. Dull mower blades rip rather than cut the grass and make the grass more susceptible to diseases. Sharpen the mower blade monthly or as needed during the growing season. A dull mower blade will shred the turfgrass foliage. The date of initial turf green-up can be quite variable.
In the coastal and more Southern regions of South Carolina, this generally will occur sometime during April, but further inland, this may be as late as mid-May. It is not unusual for St. Augustinegrass to green up and be burnt back several times during the late winter or early spring due to late season frosts.
Thatch Removal: If a thatch layer becomes a problem, use a dethatcher or vertical mower to remove it. For St. Do not use a power rake with a 1-inch blade spacing, as severe turf injury may result. Use a lawn mower with a bag attached or hand rake to collect and properly dispose of the turf material pulled up.
Aerification: Core aeration is the process of punching small holes into the turf and soil to alleviate compaction, allowing air to get to the root system. This will help to correct problems associated with poor infiltration and drainage. Once the threat for spring frost has passed and the lawn is fully greened-up, lawn aerification may be combined with dethatching to alleviate soil compaction and thatch problems. However, if a pre-emergent herbicide was applied late February to mid-March, postpone any cultivation practices that will disturb the soil until just before the next pre-emergent herbicide application date.
Pre-emergent herbicides create a barrier that keep weed seeds from germinating. Disturbing the soil after an application will allow weeds to emerge through this barrier. Weed Control: To control crabgrass, goosegrass, sandspurs, and other summer annual weeds, apply a pre-emergent herbicide early in the year.
A second application is needed approximately 8 to 10 weeks after the initial application to give season long control of annual warm-season weeds. Apply a post-emergent herbicide as needed to control existing winter weeds. In general, do not apply post-emergent herbicides to the lawn once the turf begins to green. If a weed problem begins and the grass has begun to green with warmer temperatures, wait until the grass has fully greened-up before applying a post-emergent herbicide.
In the meantime, mow and bag the weeds. Augustinegrass is sensitive to certain herbicides, such as 2,4-D, not only during spring green-up, but also during hot summer temperatures. Follow label directions for use of any herbicide and use with caution during these times. Insect Control: Cold winter temperatures will help usually keep insect problems at bay.
As temperatures start to warm in late spring, monitor for mole cricket and chinch bug activity. If either insect is observed, apply a lawn insecticide when damage becomes excessive. If the damage is minimal, monitor the activity and wait before applying an insecticide.
This is not the best time to apply an insecticide because of the cool soil temperatures and reduced insect activity. However, an early spring warm-up can lead to both mole cricket and chinch bug activity. Heavy populations can be reduced with appropriately timed insecticide treatments during this period. If grubs the white larvae of beetles, such as Japanese beetles have been a problem in previous years, monitor them by cutting a square foot piece of sod on three sides and peeling it back.
If more than six grubs are found under the sod piece, apply a lawn insecticide labeled for grub control according to label directions. Fertilization: Fertilization of St. Augustinegrass should be based on soil test results, and this is a good time to test soil.
However, fertilizers containing nitrogen should not be applied during this period. Keep grass blades at least inches tall. Make sure your soil has sufficient potassium levels to support healthy grass. Augustine grass requires nitrogen and iron to maintain its rich, green color.
Sandy soil may drain these necessary nutrients through the soil quickly. A nitrogen-rich, slow-release fertilizer may give your grass a needed boost to regain its green color.
If you suspect your grass needs a dose of iron, try a liquid iron also known as ferrous sulfate treatment. Mix 2 ounces of liquid iron with gallons of water per 1, square feet of lawn. Augustine grass thrives in the sunshine! Too much shade makes for unhappy St.
Augustine grass. If your St. Augustine grass is struggling in the shade, consider trimming back the trees and bushes that block the sun. You could also overseed the shaded area with a variety of more shade-tolerant grass, like ryegrass. A slow-release fertilizer that has a rich balance of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium will feed your St.
Augustine grass well for up to eight weeks. Not only do slow-release fertilizers save your time, but they also help the grass get nutrients gradually. Your St. Augustine grass will grow well in a sunny yard!
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