Three-way fridges run on LPG as well as 12, 24 or volts, and use gas flow heat exchangers not compressors. They're quiet, but they don't perform as well as compressor fridges, and must be kept level to operate. Three-ways come into their own if you're spending a long time in a remote location as one LPG cylinder can keep your fridge frosty for weeks — well beyond the capacity of a battery setup.
Thermoelectric fridges don't cool as well as other types and draw substantially more current. We've tested these in the past and found none could maintain safe food temperatures in anything but the mildest conditions, so they're only suitable for keeping pre-chilled drinks cool on the way to weekend sports or on a short drive home from the shops. Remember to factor in the cost of accessories like covers, mounting hardware, dual battery systems and other vehicle modifications to help you get the most out of your fridge.
Look for a portable fridge with low current draw, especially when running on 12 volts. This is a direct indication of how long your battery will last and how long your fridge will run for at your campsite, or in a parked vehicle.
Five amps is quite high and one amp is quite low. Remember, the temperature inside a vehicle can climb rapidly, so your fridge will be working extra hard if you're parked in the sun with the windows up. If you're using your portable camping fridge as a freezer, then your current draw will also be higher than when using it as a fridge.
A fridge that shuts down when the battery's struggling could save you from being stranded, especially if you're running it from your starting battery — look for a model that cuts out at a fairly high voltage to keep your battery from going flat. Look for fridges with variable protection. Some fridges are set to cut out at a very low voltage usually 9.
Deep cycling a regular car battery by using a portable fridge can reduce its life considerably and leave you stranded , so battery protection can reduce the risk of damaging yours. Better yet, you may want to install a dual-battery system with a battery designed for deep cycling for regular fridge use. If you'll use your fridge at home then consider its impact on your electricity bill and look for an energy-efficient model.
Portable fridges don't require an energy star rating, and they're mainly designed for volt use, so even though they're small they may use as much power as a full-sized fridge.
Consider a larger primary fridge instead and save the portable fridge for weekends away. Check your fridge has the correct connector for your vehicle. Many portable fridges come with a cigarette lighter plug to fit your vehicle's accessory socket, but these plugs aren't ideal for high current draw applications like fridges.
They can even unplug when you hit a bump, turning your fridge off completely. Some fridges also come with a variety of connectors to suit power sources that may already be in your vehicle. An Anderson type plug is ideal as they're designed for high current draw and connect very securely, but you may need to have one installed.
Robust mounting hardware is essential to prevent your fridge tipping over on sharp corners or becoming a projectile in an accident.
Look for sturdy mounting points to keep your fridge in place, and make sure there's corresponding tie-down points in your vehicle.
If you take your outdoor adventuring seriously let's face it, if you're buying a portable fridge then you do , then you may want a dedicated mounting kit, and there's a variety of OEM and aftermarket mounting kits available for most fridges.
Make sure kits are compatible with both your fridge and vehicle, and that it's easy to attach and remove your fridge when you get home or into camp. A fridge slide can make accessing fridges easier, and a drop slide makes it an absolute breeze — especially if your 4x4 has been lifted. You could also consider shock-minimisation options such as a foam base.
Look for a fridge with thick walls and insulation as this will generally mean better efficiency and less load on your compressor, an they'll use less power. Also consider outer casing materials — metal is durable but conducts heat more readily than plastic, while fibreglass offers the best insulation. Optional thermal covers provide additional insulation, and provide a level of protection against bumps, scratches and dents from other things in your car.
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